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No Registration is needed to shop our store. You will be using a guest cart upon checking out you will have to register and set up an account.

For any queries regarding the site, please contact the store by email at webmaster@DaVinci Artist Supply.com. Please make sure you give as much information as possible in the email.

The Wishlist is for you to temporarily list products which you at some point would like to purchase. The list will also allow the guest to email friends and family with their preferences in order to allow them to purchase any items on this list for you. Upon creating an account your wishlist will be stored permanently for your convenience.

Managing Your Wishlist

To manage your wishlist, click on the My Wishlist link at the top of every page. On the wishlist page you will see your current wishlist shipping address and a list of the products on your wishlist. Here you can choose to add products to your cart or remove items which you do not desire anymore.

Adding Items

To add a product to your Wishlist, you need to click on the ' + Wishlist' button on the bottom of the product detail page. After you add an item, you will be taken to your Wishlist page.

Removing Items

To remove an item from your Wishlist, simply check the boxes at the end of each the item you wish to remove and click 'Delete' button at the bottom of the page.

Gift Vouchers are purchased just like any other item in our store. You can pay for them using the stores standard payment method(s). Once purchased the value of the Gift Voucher will be added to your own personal Gift Voucher Account. If you have funds in your Gift Voucher Account, you will notice that the amount now shows in he Shopping Cart box, and also provides a link to a page where you can send the Gift Voucher to some one via email.

To send a Gift Voucher that you have purchased, you need to go to our Send Gift Voucher Page. You can find the link to this page in the Shopping Cart Box in the right hand column of each page. When you send a Gift Voucher, you need to specify the following:

1) The name of the person you are sending the Gift Voucher to. 2) The email address of the person you are sending the Gift Voucher to. 3) The amount you want to send. (Note you don't have to send the full amount that is in your Gift Voucher Account.) 4) A short message which will apear in the email.

Please ensure that you have entered all of the information correctly, although you will be given the opportunity to change this as much as you want before the email is actually sent. Continue

If you have funds in your Gift Voucher Account, you can use those funds to purchase other items in our store. At the checkout stage, an extra box will appear. Clicking this box will apply those funds in your Gift Voucher Account. Please note, you will still have to select another payment method if there is not enough in your Gift Voucher Account to cover the cost of your purchase. If you have more funds in your Gift Voucher Account than the total cost of your purchase the balance will be left in you Gift Voucher Account for the future.

If you receive a Gift Voucher by email it will contain details of who sent you the Gift Voucher, along with possibly a short message from them. The Email will also contain the Gift Voucher Number. It is probably a good idea to print out this email for future reference. You can now redeem the Gift Voucher in two ways.

1. By clicking on the link contained within the email for this express purpose. This will take you to the store's Redeem Voucher page. you will the be requested to create an account, before the Gift Voucher is validated and placed in your Gift Voucher Account ready for you to spend it on whatever you want.

2. During the checkout procces, on the same page that you select a payment method there will be a box to enter a Redeem Code. Enter the code here, and click the redeem button. The code will be validated and added to your Gift Voucher account. You Can then use the amount to purchase any item from our store

Considering the expense of a sable brush, it is worth doing this test to demonstrate the quality of the product. Begin by dipping the new brush into a glass of water, flick the hairs against your wrist to loosen glue used to protect the brush when it is shipped. Swirl the brush about in the water until it is thoroughly soaked and then sharply snap your wrist while holding the brush to discharge the water. The brush should come to a perfect point and the hairs should spring into position without flopping over.

It’s vital to the life of your brushes to care for them as their value warrants. Never rest brushes on their hairs. Always leave them flat or with the hairs upright. Keep brushes clean during the painting session and give them a thorough cleaning after the session. For water-based paints, switch back and forth between rinsing out with tap water and mildly soaped water. For oil and alkyd paints, use mineral spirits or turpentine in the same manner and finish up with mild soap or brush cleaner and water. Always reshape the brush when work is complete.

Here’s a tip for cleaning really big brushes often used in oil painting. Place an old wire colander in a gallon plastic ice cream bucket. Next, place both in a taller bucket with a lid. Fill the gallon bucket with paint thinner to cover the bristles. Swirl the brushes against the colander and then wipe off the excess with a rag. The big bucket catches any splashes.

Remember that solvents are toxic and should be disposed of as hazardous wastes.

Another large factor in determining which type of palette you buy depends on its ease of cleaning. The joy of disposable palettes is obvious. The soiled paper can be thrown away while a fresh palette awaits underneath. Although many artists prefer it, it is not always necessary to have a spanking clean surface each time you paint. In fact, some oil painters keep their pigments on the palette and clean only the middle mixing area, adding pigment from the tube onto the palette only when necessary and not each time one paints. Oil paint can be cleaned off the palette with turpentine or scraped off with a blade. The same holds true for acrylics and watercolors, although water should be used instead of turpentine. It is much easier to clean palettes when the paint is wet.

The nature of paper, as well as its inherent faults, can cause it to become moldy, stained, wrinkled or torn. Some of these problems can be corrected before further damage is done, but once damaged, paper can never be returned to its original state.
Mold is characterized by brown or gray-green spots or stains. Caused by too humid an environment, mold–also called foxing–can be treated by removing the work to a dry place and exposing it to circulating air and sunlight for a day to kill the organism.

Stains caused by water or atmospheric pollutants can sometimes be treated by bleaching the work with hydrogen peroxide vapors in a closed environment.

Insects such as silverfish, *****roaches and termites will eat paper and the only protection against this intrusion is insecticide or the removal of the artwork to a safer environment.


When paper is torn, a patch can be made from paper that is thinner than the original art. Feather the edge of the patch with water and feather the fibers around the edge of the patch. Attach the patch with a weak glue to the reverse of the object.
Careless handling, folding and rolling can cause paper to crease, wrinkle or warp. Depending on the nature of the media used in making the work, these physical defects can be reduced by exposing the object to a humidified atmosphere, by pressing under moderate weight or a combination of the two methods.

There may be an occasion when you want to clean a soiled mat. To do so, first lay the mat flat on a clean level surface. Dust with a clean cloth or a brush to remove all loose particles and then rub it with a soft kneaded eraser. An abrasive ink eraser, used gently, and sharp utility knives may remove stubborn spots, but you must be careful never to damage the surface. Also try clean rags and rubber cement thinner, gently rubbed over and over the mat. Finally, if necessary, use lacquer thinner with cotton balls, to clean the mat completely.

As you experiment with mediums, keep in mind these guidelines:

1) Use the minimum amount of medium to serve a particular purpose. Conservators seem to be in agreement that oil paintings done with straight paint (no mediums except a little thinner) form the strongest, most permanent films.

2) When using gobs of oil-containing gel mediums to build up texture, there is significant danger of yellowing.

3) Yellowing is sometimes rapid and pronounced when a painting is left in darkness; the yellowing will gradually lighten as the painting is exposed to normal daylight.

4) Mediums containing copal varnish are likely to darken significantly.

1) Best results are achieved by constant motion. Start your motion before pressing the trigger, follow through your motion after releasing the trigger. Do not reverse your direction. If the motion is uneven, the finish will be uneven.

2) Runs and sags are the most common problem. They are caused by:

a. “Freezing” or forgetting to release the trigger at the end of the stroke.
b. Holding the airbrush still or moving too slowly.
c. Holding the airbrush too close to the surface.

To assemble and craft your own canvas requires only the use of a few tools. This method is more economical than purchasing pre-stretched canvas, plus it’s easy to create custom sizes.

Besides the canvas itself, you will need stretcher bars, canvas pliers and a heavy-duty stapler. Stretcher bars are wooden frames available in different lengths to which the canvas is attached.

Begin by fitting four stretcher bars together to form the desired size square or rectangular frame. Cut your canvas at least 1-1/2" to 2" bigger than the frame on all sides (preferably 3" to 4" bigger) to account for overlap around the stretcher frame. Lay the canvas down on a large, clean flat surface like the floor. Place the frame down in the middle of the canvas. Fold one side of the canvas onto the frame, and staple it once in the center. Fold and staple the opposite side, then the remaining sides, using canvas pliers to pull the canvas taut as you work. Once all the sides have been tacked in place, continue to add staples working out from the center, stopping when you are close to the corner. When all sides are completely stapled, it is time to finish the corners. Pull one corner of the canvas taut and staple it to the corner of the frame. Then smooth the flaps and staple them down. Complete the remaining corners the same way. This will create tight, neat corners.

When painting outdoors, also known as plein air, windy conditions can make your easel an unsteady work surface. In such cases, the easel may be secured by suspending a large stone from the apex of the tripod, or by tying the legs to pegs pushed firmly into the ground.

A general rule of thumb is to use the big flat brushes as long as you can to paint broad areas like background and such. As you paint the smaller shapes in the middle ground and foreground, you can switch to a medium-sized brush. Save your smallest brushes for fine details at the very end of a painting.

When painting, it’s preferable to apply your paint in layers working from light to dark. The lightest tones are applied first then left to dry. Darker tones are applied gradually where they are needed resulting in a richer image than you’d get with a single wash of a dark color.

Many artists stretch their paper to prevent it from buckling when applying water to its surface. This is especially helpful when using thinner papers. Stretching involves soaking the paper in tepid water for ten minutes then taping your sheet onto a flat surface to dry. A hair dryer on a cool setting can help speed the drying time.

Using an easel that allows the top edge of the painting to tilt toward you is best for pastel work. The tilt ensures that, rather than sift down onto the picture, falling pastel dust will drop to the floor or the easel’s tray. Try making a trough out of moistened newspaper for easy clean-up.

1) Weigh the fabrics that you plan to dye, separating the wool from the cotton and silk. You will use this weight to determine how much salt and fixer you will need for your pre-wash.

2) Wash any new items thoroughly to remove the sizing. Be sure that your fabrics are free of grease spots.

3) Pre-soak the materials in the following solution. If you have more or less material than a pound, adjust the proportions of salt and fixer to match.

Pre-Wash Solution Recipe:

For every pound of cotton or silk, mix one cup of salt and 1/2 cup of soda fixer (sold commercially) in two gallons of warm water (or enough water to cover the fabric.) Add fabric and soak for 30 minutes.

For every pound of wool, mix 1/2 cup of salt and two cups of vinegar in two gallons of warm water (or enough to cover the fabric). Add fabric and soak for 30 minutes.